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Mandu
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Legends of Love in the City of Joy |
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This
fortress town on a rocky outcrop 100 km from Indore is
celebrated for its fine architecture. Mandu is a
celebration in stone of life and joy, of the love of the
poet-prince Baz Bahadur for his beautiful consort, Rani
Roopmati. The balladeers of Malwa still sing of the
romance of these royal lovers, and high on the crest of a
hill, |
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Roopmati's pavilion
still gazes down at Baz Bahadur's palace, a magnificent expression of
Afghan architecture.
Perched along the
Vindhyan ranges at an altitude of 2,000 feet, Mandu, with its natural
defences, was originally the fort-capital of the Parmar rulers of
Malwa. Towards the end of the 13th century, it came under the
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sway of the Sultans of Malwa, the first of whom renamed it Shadiabad
- the city of Joy. And indeed, the pervading spirit of Mandu was of gaiety;
and its rulers built exquisite palaces like the Jahaz and Hindola
Mahals, ornamental canals, baths and pavilions, as graceful and
refined as those times of peace and plenty. Each of Mandu's structures
is an architectural gem; some are outstanding like the massive Jami
Masjid and Hoshang Shah's Tomb, which provided inspiration for the
master builders of the Taj Mahal centuries later. Under Mughal rule
Mandu was a pleasure resort, its lakes and palaces the scenes of
splendid and extravagant festivities. And the glory of Mandu lives on,
in its palaces and mosques, in legends and songs, chronicled for
posterity. |
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What to See |
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The 45 km parapet of
walls that encircle Mandu are punctuated by 12 gateways. Most 1hrough a series of gateways well fortified
with walled enclosures and strengthened by bastions such as the Alamir
and Bhangi Darwaza, through which the present road passes. Rampol
Drawaza, Jehangir Gate and Tarapur Gate are some of the other main
gateways. |
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The Royal Enclave |
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Jahaz
Mahal |
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This 120 meter long, elegant twostoreyed 'ship palace' was built between the two artificial
lakes, Munj Talao and Kapur Talao. Probably it was built by
Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din Khilji for his large harem. With its open
pavilions, balconies overhanging the water and open terrace, the
Jahaz Mahal is an imaginative recreation in |
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stone of a royal
pleasure craft. Viewed on moonlit nights the building, with the
tiny domes and turrets of the pavilion gracefully perched on the
terrace, presents an unforgettable spectacle. |
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Hindola
Mahal |
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An audience hall also
belonging to Ghiyas-ud-din's reign, it derives the name of
'Swinging Palace' from its sloping side walls. Superb and
innovative techniques are also evident in its ornamental facade,
delicate trellis work in sandstone and beautiful moulded
columns. |
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To the west of
Hindola Mahal there are several unidentified buildings which
still bear traces of their past grandeur. Amidst these is an
elaborately constructed well called Champa Baoli which is
connected with underground vaulted rooms where arrangements for
cold and hot water were made.
Other places of
interest in this enclave are Dilawar Khan's Mosque, the Nahar
Jharokha ( tiger balcony ), Taveli Mahal, the two large wells
called the Ujali ( bright ) and Andheri ( Dark ) Baolis and Gada
Shah's Shop and House, all worth a visit. |
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The Central Group |
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Hoshang Shah's
Tomb |
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India's first marble edifice is one
of the most refined examples of Afghan architecture. Its unique
features are the magnificently proportioned dome, marble lattice work
of remarkable delicacy and porticoed courts and towers to mark the
four corners of the rectangle. Shah Jehan sent four of his great
architects to study the design and draw inspiration from the tomb.
Among them was Ustad Hamid, who was also associated with the
construction of the Taj Mahal. |
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Jami Masjid |
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Inspired by the great mosque of Damascus,
the Jami Masjid was conceived on a grand scale, with a high plinth and
a huge domed porch projecting in the centre, the background
dominated by similar imposing domes, with the intervening space
filled up by seemingly innumerable domes. Here one is at once
struck by the hugeness of the building's proportions and the stern
simplicity of its construction. The great court of the mosque is
enclosed on all sides by huge colonnades with a rich and pleasing
variety in the arrangement |
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arches, pillars, number of bays, and
in the rows of domes above. |
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Ashrafi Mahal |
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Built by Hoshang Shah's successor, Mahmud Shah Khilji, this 'palace of
gold coins', facing the Jami Masjid, was conceived as an academic
institution for young boys, and sundry cells still remain in a fair
state of preservation. In the same complex he built a seven storeyed
tower to celebrate his victory over Rana Khumba of Mewar; only one
storey has survived. Also in ruins is the tomb which was intended to
be the largest structure of Mandu, but which collapsed due to hasty
and faulty construction. |
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Rewa Kund Group |
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Rewa Kund |
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A reservoir with an aquaduct built by Baz
Bahadur to provide Roopmati's palace with water. Today the pool is
revered as a scared spot. |
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Baz Bahadur's
Palace |
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Built by Baz Bahadur in the early
16th century, the palace's unique features are its spacious courtyard
surrounded by halls and high terraces which afford a superb view of
the surrounding countryside. |
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Roopmati's
Pavilion |
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The pavilion was originally built
as an army observation post. From its hilltop perch, this graceful
structure with its two pavilions was a retreat of the lovely queen,
from where she could see Baz Bahadur's Palace and the Narmada flowing
through the Nimar plains far below. |
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Other Monuments |
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There are other
monuments in Mandu which do not fall in any group but which merit
special attention. |
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Nilkanth |
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This sacred Shiva shrine is sited in a
magnificent setting, at the very edge of a steep gorge. In its
tree-shaded courtyard, a sacred pond is fed by a stream, and pilgrims
still gather to worship here. |
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Nilkanth Mahal |
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Belonging to the Mughal era and close to
the Niikanth shrine, this palace was constructed by the Mughal
governor, Shah Badgah Khan, for the Emperor Akbar's Hindu wife. On the
walls here are some inscriptions of the time of Akbar, referring to
the futility of earthly pomp and glory.
Hathi Mahal, Darya
Khan's Tomb, Dai Ka Mahal, Dai Ki Chhotti Behan Ka Mahal, Malik
Mughith's Mosque and Jali Mahal are some of the Mandu's other
fascinating monuments. There is also the Echo Point, the 'Delphic
Oracle' of Mandu. A shout from here reverbrates far below and is heard
clearly back.
The Lohani caves and
temple ruins, not far from the royal enclave area, also merit a visit
due to their association with Mandu's history and monuments. Sunset
Point in front of the caves affords a panoramic view of the
surrounding countryside. |
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Top |
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How to go |
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Regular bus services
connect Mandu with Indore, Dhar, Mhow, Ratlam, Ujjain and Bhopal. |
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Convenient railheads
are Ratlam ( 124km ) on the Mumbai-Delhi main line and Indore (99km). |
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nearest airport is at Indore, 99 km away, connected to Mumbai,
Delhi, Gwalior, and Bhopal. |
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